The former professional surfer tells his own story On the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, brilliant surfer, Australian sports hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, and big wave charger. But inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction--part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture he'd done so much to legitimize. Tom's family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and fear as the wheel began to grind him down. Then a window opened, but getting through it made charging Pipeline look like a piece of cake. This is the story of an unlikely moral education: of humility, family, damage, brotherhood, youth, stupidity, glory, single-mindedness, and surrender, and about the feeling of water moving under a surfboard, how it can bind past to present and make sense of lives.
I will never forget the story from my good friend at Rhodes University in the 1980s , Wayne ' Sparky ' McMillan . He recalled how one of the country's most infamous shark attacks unravelled before his eyes . His friend Alex Macun was ...
Lobo do mar: a coragem do homem, a bravura do mar, a forca da sabedoria
Authorised biography of an Australian surfer whose revolutionary technique led to him becoming four times consecutive world champion from 1979 to 1982.
Is it possible to change your life in middle age? Are we destined to follow the same path, or are there new opportunities to be grasped? This is a life-affirming memoir which will inspire and delight.
This book portrays the ultimate battle between the elements and mankind: the water and the waves against the board and man.Of related interest: Surf ISBN 9789089896544 - $15.95
Providing a comprehensive look at the sport's eras, locations, and legends, with a host of stunning images and a glossary of surfing terms, this is a truly unforgettable look at the obsession of those who face down monstrous waves.
Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Looking for Something to Find
In Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered from decades of surfing-from his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to ...
Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life