This eclectic mix of surfing stories has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers, as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and many are illustrated with colour photographs.
The book features stories about surf legends such as Greg Noll, Miki Dora, Ken Bradshaw, Buzzy Kerbox, Laird Hamilton, Brad Gerlach, Tubesteak and many more.
A heart-pounding love story that grips like a riptide, and doesn’t let go...
One night while Ian and Dean were struggling to write their own song to record, one of the old Barons members, Arnie Ginsberg, showed up with an idea for a song titled “Ienny Lee” inspired by a local stripper.
"--The New York Times Magazine "Incandescent . . . I'd sooner press this book upon on a nonsurfer, in part because nothing I've read so accurately describes the feeling of being stoked or the despair of being held under. . .
Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing
388 MITCHELL , JAMES “ CHUBBY ” phy in 1972 , this time as a career . Unlike virtually all his peers , the quiet and genial Moir avoids the annual winter surf scrimmage on the North Shore in Oahu , Hawaii . In 1999 , he photographed the ...
They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins.
Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.
The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made ...
Divided into five sections covering Asia, Africa, Australia, Europe, and the Americas, this volume follows surfers in their search for that perfect wave. 150 photos.